本期的外刊来源于The Guardian
本期的标题是：
Ugly makeup: the trend highlighting what's beyond conventional beauty
丑妆潮流：超越对美的传统定义
[scode type="blue"]SKIMMING[/scode]
Ugly makeup: the trend highlighting what's beyond conventional beauty
①In 2018, Rosanna Meikle felt like a failure . She was toiling through beauty school, and she hadn't been able to garner much attention for her creations online. She was exhausted from the sameness she saw around her, "a sea of beautiful girls, smoky eyes and plumped lips", she remembers.
②So she decided to try something totally different. One day, she created "a mess". For an assignment, she painted her model with black, aggressive scribbles , green cartoonish snakes,blurry orange lips and spiky, Twiggy-esque lashes.
③Meikle didn't realize it at the time, but she was joining a movement that has been slowly gaining momentum — the ugly makeup revolution, a term coined by the Berlin-based makeup artist and activist Eszter Magyar.
④"It's not about ugliness, " Magyar says. "It's about irregularity."
⑤This irregularity goes against what we're accustomed of seeing on social media. Over the past five years, a "selfie face" has emerged: pursed lips, big, wide-open eyes, and feature-enhancing makeup applied just so. Ugly makeup challenges this status quo .
⑥While strangeness can be very sexy, the purpose isn't to be sexy. The purpose is to please the wearer. "To look at something ugly, and realize it unexpectedly pleases you, is a rather precious moment that forces us to reconsider the confines of what we deem necessary for something to be beautiful, " says Julia Lee, a 24-year-old designer who lives in Singapore.
⑦Ugly exists for ugly's sake. It's an underrated aesthetic, one that more people should embrace.
[scode type="blue"]Perusal[/scode]
①In 2018, Rosanna Meikle felt like a failure . She was toiling through beauty school, and she hadn't been able to garner much attention for her creations online. She was exhausted from the sameness she saw around her, "a sea of beautiful girls, smoky eyes and plumped lips", she remembers.
2018 年的时候，罗莎娜·梅克尔觉得⾃⼰很失败。当时，她还在美妆学院⾥苦苦修炼，还没有靠发在⽹上的作品获得多少关注度。她对身边的千篇⼀律感到精疲⼒竭，“周围美⼥如云，个个都是烟熏妆、嘟嘟唇”，她这样回忆道。
[scode type="green"]failure[/scode]
嘻嘻博主在这并不是讲failure这个词
只是前几天看到一个与“failure”有关的习语----sink like a stone , 它的英文释义是To quickly and thoroughly fail.
如：
① Although the film cost a lot of money to make, it enjoyed no success at all; in fact, it sank like a stone.
②The singer's second album sank like a stone.
[scode type="green"]garner
vt. 储存；获得；把…储入谷仓
n. 谷仓[/scode]
If someone has garnered something useful or valuable, they have gained it or collected it.
所以这是一个很好的代替“gain, get ”等词语，大家可以在写作中用上
它常见的搭配是garner in/up ,表示：To harvest or gather something and store it in some place or thing.
它后面常见的名词有“reputation, experience, attention, support, resource”等
[scode type="green"]a sea of[/scode]
表示“许多”
②So she decided to try something totally different. One day, she created "a mess". For an assignment, she painted her model with black, aggressive scribbles, green cartoonish snakes,blurry orange lips and spiky, Twiggy-esque lashes.
于是，她决定尝试点完全不同的东⻄。有⼀天，她创作了⼀个“⼀团糟”的作品。在⼀次作业中，她在模特身上乱涂了⼀些⿊⾊的、具有冲击性的线条，画了⼏条绿⾊的卡通蛇，做了⼀个晕染的橘⾊唇妆，还画了⼏条细细尖尖的枝状睫⽑。
[scode type="green"]scribble
n. 潦草写成的东西；潦草的写法；杂文
vt. 乱写；滥写；潦草地书写[/scode]
If you scribble something, you write it quickly and roughly.
Eg:
①Once in the cafe, Pia takes out her coloring book and starts scribbling.
到了咖啡厅， 皮娅拿出她的图画本开始涂画。----《TED演讲》
②She can’t write yet, but she loves to scribble with a pencil.
她现在还不会写字, 但她喜欢用铅笔乱涂。
在这里想额外补充一些“美妆化妆类”词汇
比如，用了那么多年的眼影，眼线笔，爽肤水，你知道它们的英文是啥吗？
爽肤水: toner
面膜: facial mask/masque
磨砂膏: facial scrub
润肤露（身体）: body lotion/moisturizer
遮瑕膏: concealer
粉底: foundation
粉饼: pressed powder
眉笔：brow pencil
眼线笔：eye liner
眼影: eye shadow
睫毛膏: mascara
腮红: blush
卸装水: makeup remover
⑤This irregularity goes against what we're accustomed of seeing on social media. Over the past five years, a "selfie face" has emerged: pursed lips, big, wide-open eyes, and feature-enhancing makeup applied just so. Ugly makeup challenges this status quo .
这种⾮常规“丑妆”与我们在社交媒体上常⻅的妆容背道⽽驰。过去的五年⾥，“⾃拍脸”兴起了：微嘟的双唇、瞪得圆圆的⼤眼睛，再配上⼀款凸显五官的特定妆容。⽽丑妆则挑战了这⼀现状。
[scode type="green"]the status quo
现状[/scode]
Eg：
①The status quo simply won't last.
现状并不长久。---《库克演讲合辑》
②And all comfort has done is maintain the status quo.
舒适能做的，就是维持现状。----《TED演讲》
拓展：
除了the status quo是一个常见的拉丁语词，还有一个常见的拉丁词是“sine quo non”表示“必要元素”
⑦Ugly exists for ugly's sake. It's an underrated aesthetic, one that more people should embrace.
丑，有其存在的意义。它是⼀种被低估了的审美，⼀种应该被更多⼈接受的审美。
[scode type="green"]underrate（v.）
低估[/scode]
它的形容词形式是“underrated”,有一个和它很像的词是“underestimated”，也表示“被低估的”
If you underrate someone or something, you do not recognize how clever, important, or significant they are.
Eg：
①So dorky. But a really underrated movie.
太老套了 不过这绝对是部被低估的电影。----《摩登家庭第二季》
②Same on the psychological level, failure is underrated.
在心理层面也相同，失败会被低估。----《哈佛大学“幸福课”》
[scode type="share"]外刊原文[/scode]
In 2018, Rosanna Meikle felt like a failure. She was toiling through beauty school, and she hadn’t been able to find much work nor garner much attention for her creations online. She was exhausted from the sameness she saw around her, “a sea of beautiful girls, smoky eyes and plumped lips”, she remembers. “My school was in an expensive area of Auckland, which made me feel so out of place. I couldn’t afford the products or the clothes, my kit wasn’t ‘professional’ enough and neither was my look.”
So she decided to try something totally different. One day, she created “a mess”. For an assignment, she painted her model with black, aggressive scribbles, green cartoonish snakes, blurry orange lips and spiky, Twiggy-esque lashes. “I was under the impression my look was awful,” she says. But on Instagram, it took off.
Meikle didn’t realize it at the time, but she was joining a movement that has been slowly gaining momentum – the ugly makeup revolution, a term coined by the Berlin-based makeup artist and activist Eszter Magyar, who began working on the project in 2018. “Ugly makeup revolution is a community,” she says, as is her other hashtag, makeup brutalism.
I absolutely love it, and want others to see its demanding beauty too.
During quarantine, I’ve been luxuriating in the strangeness of it, and occasionally trying my hand at slightly ugly or off-kilter looks of my own, embracing slime green eye shadow and blue lips.
Online, the best entries into the still-burgeoning canon are often grotesque and rather uncanny. Pearls glued to skin, rimming an eyelid like so many warts. Black scribbled words across a red-painted face, screaming at the viewer to “eat the rich.”. Pollack-like splatters of blue on yellow lips. There’s something dreamlike about them. Some are playful and childlike – Dr Seuss would approve. But others are sinister and menacing, aggressive and slightly brutal. They look like they hurt to wear, and some of them do.
The work of these artists is frequently derided – for being both too ugly and not ugly enough. “It’s not about ugliness,” Magyar says. “It’s about irregularity. Ugly is just a word, which makes you pay attention.”
This irregularity goes against what we’re accustomed of seeing on social media. Over the past five years, a “selfie face” has emerged: pursed lips, big, wide-open eyes, and feature-enhancing makeup applied just so. “The fact that there’s such a specific face associated with the selfie tells us that the portrait is less about expressing one’s self and more about expressing compliance with the idea of what a young woman is,” writes Autumn Whitefield-Madrano in her 2017 book, Face Value. “If there’s self-expression involved in the prototypical selfie, it’s the expression of a wish, not of reality.”Ugly makeup challenges this status quo.
“We’re living in the age of tutorials, when everyone is asking how and never why,” says Magyar. “Lots of people are accepting what they see without questioning anything at all. They know how to draw the perfect liner but they have no idea why they’re doing it.” His looks are different. They’re imperfect, sloppy and chaotic. Some remind me of the Fauvist paintings, while others feel cubist and still others are straight-up dada. While the artists sometimes share how they created a look, the focus is less on remaking what you see. Viewers are there to appreciate the vision, not replicate it on their own bodies.
Ugly makeup also has a political side. It subverts the purpose of makeup that has been imposed on the practice by evolutionary biologists and writers. According to this late-20th-century school of thought, popularized by Desmond Morris in The Naked Ape (1967), women wear lipstick to make our lips look more like blood-swollen labia and eye shadow to give our eyes that sleepy, dewy post-orgasm glow. And so for the past half-century, we have been told that makeup is a tool that aids in procreation, even if on a subconscious horny level. “Lipstick manufacturers did not create an enhanced mouth,” wrote Morris. “They created a pair of super labia.” Talk about a cubist nightmare.
While sociologists and anthropologists have long questioned the accuracy of Morris’s theories, the idea that makeup is about sex remains prevalent. Women who wear lots of makeup are often stigmatized or dismissed. Women who wear too little are called unprofessional or sloppy. And men who wear makeup? They receive their own set of stereotypes.
